(written August 19)
The pictures are my new and improved kitchen, my immediate, Piliura family [Back row left to right is Kalvau (my brother), Ruben (cousin), and Naomi (Kalvau’s wife). Center row is Papa, Davis (Kalvau’s son), Greg (my deaf cousin), Momma, and Timothy (my counterpart’s kid that snuck into the picture). The front row is Kalvau’s daughters Neri and Gladys], and the last picture is of my counterpart Charlie and his family [Charlie’s youngest boy is Rexson and is only a year old. Then there’s Timothy who you’ll recognize from the last picture, and the older boy is a cousin named Kaltang. The towel wrapped around his head is very commonly worn like that when people are sick. I guess its supposed to help with the mumps somehow and they use it for everyday colds too. When Jared, Peace Corps Volunteer, got the mumps during training we all told him he should use the towel. He was not amused. The woman in the picture is Charlie’s wife, Sepora. The dog is the previous volunteer’s dog, Pakoa (shark in local language), and he’s an awesome dog when he's not barking in the middle of the night.]
The last couple weeks have been just living out the village life. There was about a week and a half that consisted of community days where the village went out to brush each other’s gardens. Basically, clearing bush to be burned and used for the next crop. I took part in this as we all went to town with our “bush knives” or machetes. Definitely a lot of work but it was pretty fun as well. One time during this week we took a break as there was a big ceremony observing the one-month point of a death in a neighboring village. They even killed a couple sea turtles for the occasion. Something I wouldn’t have done but it is custom for certain very special ceremonies and I think they kill about two a year. The killed sea turtles were on the menu and I really couldn’t decline as I have eaten any other cooked animal they brought to me before. So yes, I ate green sea turtle, and yes I was filled with guilt for eating one of the very things I am working to protect out here. My rationale being that the turtles were already dead, someone’s going to eat them, and I didn’t want to offend my hosts. Have to say it tasted good (like gamey chicken but better) and I don’t think I’ll ever eat it again.
Well, the day after our turtle feast, which included many other types of meat and side dishes, we went to work brushing gardens again. The sound in the field we were clearing was that of a bunch of ducks quacking or a horde of vocalizing California barking spiders (Arachnis flatulensa). That’s right, just about everyone, including myself, were ripping ass constantly expressing our content with yesterday’s meal. I don’t think I’ve ever heard and seen anything like it before. To top it off everyone was farting at the same pitch. Very impressive! Talk about coming together as a community… I really do get a good kick out of farts and I don’t think I’ll ever grow out of it. For instance one memory just came to mind of an incident during a college class in a lecture hall seating about 200 people. During a lull in the lecture someone squeezed out a fart that echoed throughout the room. Well this distinguished group of higher education hopefuls turned into ten-year-olds in a split second as just about everyone was laughing loudly. Farting is funny. Go with it.
One of the gardens we brushed was my own future garden and I’m pretty excited about getting that going. Should have space for a few herbs, tomatoes, onions, green beans, chili peppers (plenty), and carrots. This week I also spun my local fishing rod, a wine bottle with fishing line wrapped around the barrel and a hook at the end. In order to cast this technological masterpiece one swings the end piece (about a meter) of the line attached the hook around like a cowboy with his lasso and casts the line. The bottle is held, upside down, in the other hand to let the line out. I’ve been working at my casting this week and made some marked improvement. As Kalo put it, “Seth you’ve achieved what a Ni-Van does at 6 years of age, Congratulations.” Followed by a necessary “Fuck You” from me. We both had a good laugh at that one.
To get bait you either grab small sand crabs or hermit crabs or you use a similar fishing device with a beer bottle and a large treble hook to snag sardines as they come close to shore in large schools. These guys catch some pretty damn big fish on these hand lines. Obed, from the shore, caught an 80-pound trevally on a hand line. Don’t think I’ll achieve that feat but I’m looking forward to getting into some out here. Have to send some pictures. Yesterday, Alec dragged from the bush my canoe that he’s working for me. Its about 6 feet long and will have an outrigger attached to it when all is said and done. Figure I should be able to burn a lot of downtime here fishing.
I also found out last week that we receive all four Vila radio stations clear as a bell. I’m going into town tomorrow to try to hunt down a cheap radio. They run the BBC World News at 7 each day. Right about the time I’m drinking my cup of coffee in the morning. Perfect! Speaking of coffee, we built the tables in my kitchen this week and cooking has become much more enjoyable. They are a perfect height, a problem I have even in the States. We joked how if a short volunteer replaces me they’ll have to build a step stool like the one Pat Seyjack of Wheel of Fortune uses to satisfy his Napoleon complex while greeting contestants. Haven’t noticed? Take a look the next time you watch the Wheel. I’ve already been experimenting with some of the locally available produce and melding it with Western spices. Made a damn good pumpkin soup a week ago and some tasty banana cinnamon pancakes the other day. A previous volunteer made a great cookbook geared towards using what is locally available, and the cookbooks were printed and distributed to each trainee during training. The author went to Poway High, graduated the same year as me, and I actually met him once through a cross-country friend of mine. Hats off to you Taylor for all the hard work!
Yesterday I met with the conservation committee for the village I stay in, Piliura, to try and hash out a plan to resolve a dispute my village has with the Nguna-Pele MPA. Turns out both bodies want income generated off of a tourist sponsor-a-turtle and tag him program. The MPA wants my village to sign the newly-drafted MPA agreement, but my village opposed signing a few months ago as the agreement had a clause sending all income from turtle tagging to the MPA. The tourist program is only run by Piliura, and they feel they have all rights to the tourists and their money. The MPA on the other hand, is broke, looking for income generation, and knows that the MPA name is used for the Piliura turtle tagging certificate and that MPA equipment is used for the tagging. Both sides have been very stubborn and engaged in very circular arguments during the two meetings held previous to my arrival in Pele. Well, after a lot of discussion with my village and the village conservation council, I got them to hash out a realistic proposal containing the amount of money going to the MPA and Piliura etc., the reasons why Piliura wants the given percentage of money, and what Pilura plans to do with the money earned.
Both sides have pretty valid points and I’m hoping they can come to an agreement during the MPA meeting on the 29th. Its definitely in my best interest for this to happen as I am an MPA volunteer, but my host village, because of the MPA base location, is Piliura. Its like Conflict Mediation 101 over here, and I’ve had to very careful to not take a side here while still pushing for something to be decided on.
During the conservation committee meeting we also talked of future initiatives the village wants to go ahead with including making a physical boundary of the conservation area (using buoys), a mariculture workshop, and the committee’s plan to generate income by selling kava. The latter being a good plan as Piliura does not make kava and there seems to be a good demand for it. I also told them of the incentive for people to drink when they knew the money was going to a good cause. “Get drunk and save the Earth!” Shit, you could even market it to overnight tourists once the two bungalows are built. In fact, the volunteers on Nguna have already used this to generate some small income for the MPA. I’m guessing that’s where the Piliura guys got the idea from.
I’m headed to Vila tomorrow a little earlier than the month interval period I gave myself to go because there’s a Cubs-Cards game (at Wrigley) on satellite. Two weeks ago, when I was in town, there was a scheduling change so no baseball was to be watched. In fact, one time they switched out the game for PBR bull riding. The Ni-Van waiter laughed his ass off at the site of some idiot riding a huge bull, but we weren’t to amused that baseball got bumped. So I’m hoping I get to watch a game this time as it may be the last time I’ll get to see the Cubbies this season.
There’s a business side to the trip too…I’m printing out the Bislama directions I made up for OTL and Beach Volleyball as I hope to get cranking on those soon. They also want me to grab the official sand soccer rules as they want to start a league for that too. I’m also going to pass on a disc I made of Vanuatu birdcalls pulled off a great internet site the last time I was in town (http://www.postiveearth.com if anyone’s interested, it may have a .vu at the end. I forget).
The pictures are my new and improved kitchen, my immediate, Piliura family [Back row left to right is Kalvau (my brother), Ruben (cousin), and Naomi (Kalvau’s wife). Center row is Papa, Davis (Kalvau’s son), Greg (my deaf cousin), Momma, and Timothy (my counterpart’s kid that snuck into the picture). The front row is Kalvau’s daughters Neri and Gladys], and the last picture is of my counterpart Charlie and his family [Charlie’s youngest boy is Rexson and is only a year old. Then there’s Timothy who you’ll recognize from the last picture, and the older boy is a cousin named Kaltang. The towel wrapped around his head is very commonly worn like that when people are sick. I guess its supposed to help with the mumps somehow and they use it for everyday colds too. When Jared, Peace Corps Volunteer, got the mumps during training we all told him he should use the towel. He was not amused. The woman in the picture is Charlie’s wife, Sepora. The dog is the previous volunteer’s dog, Pakoa (shark in local language), and he’s an awesome dog when he's not barking in the middle of the night.]
The last couple weeks have been just living out the village life. There was about a week and a half that consisted of community days where the village went out to brush each other’s gardens. Basically, clearing bush to be burned and used for the next crop. I took part in this as we all went to town with our “bush knives” or machetes. Definitely a lot of work but it was pretty fun as well. One time during this week we took a break as there was a big ceremony observing the one-month point of a death in a neighboring village. They even killed a couple sea turtles for the occasion. Something I wouldn’t have done but it is custom for certain very special ceremonies and I think they kill about two a year. The killed sea turtles were on the menu and I really couldn’t decline as I have eaten any other cooked animal they brought to me before. So yes, I ate green sea turtle, and yes I was filled with guilt for eating one of the very things I am working to protect out here. My rationale being that the turtles were already dead, someone’s going to eat them, and I didn’t want to offend my hosts. Have to say it tasted good (like gamey chicken but better) and I don’t think I’ll ever eat it again.
Well, the day after our turtle feast, which included many other types of meat and side dishes, we went to work brushing gardens again. The sound in the field we were clearing was that of a bunch of ducks quacking or a horde of vocalizing California barking spiders (Arachnis flatulensa). That’s right, just about everyone, including myself, were ripping ass constantly expressing our content with yesterday’s meal. I don’t think I’ve ever heard and seen anything like it before. To top it off everyone was farting at the same pitch. Very impressive! Talk about coming together as a community… I really do get a good kick out of farts and I don’t think I’ll ever grow out of it. For instance one memory just came to mind of an incident during a college class in a lecture hall seating about 200 people. During a lull in the lecture someone squeezed out a fart that echoed throughout the room. Well this distinguished group of higher education hopefuls turned into ten-year-olds in a split second as just about everyone was laughing loudly. Farting is funny. Go with it.
One of the gardens we brushed was my own future garden and I’m pretty excited about getting that going. Should have space for a few herbs, tomatoes, onions, green beans, chili peppers (plenty), and carrots. This week I also spun my local fishing rod, a wine bottle with fishing line wrapped around the barrel and a hook at the end. In order to cast this technological masterpiece one swings the end piece (about a meter) of the line attached the hook around like a cowboy with his lasso and casts the line. The bottle is held, upside down, in the other hand to let the line out. I’ve been working at my casting this week and made some marked improvement. As Kalo put it, “Seth you’ve achieved what a Ni-Van does at 6 years of age, Congratulations.” Followed by a necessary “Fuck You” from me. We both had a good laugh at that one.
To get bait you either grab small sand crabs or hermit crabs or you use a similar fishing device with a beer bottle and a large treble hook to snag sardines as they come close to shore in large schools. These guys catch some pretty damn big fish on these hand lines. Obed, from the shore, caught an 80-pound trevally on a hand line. Don’t think I’ll achieve that feat but I’m looking forward to getting into some out here. Have to send some pictures. Yesterday, Alec dragged from the bush my canoe that he’s working for me. Its about 6 feet long and will have an outrigger attached to it when all is said and done. Figure I should be able to burn a lot of downtime here fishing.
I also found out last week that we receive all four Vila radio stations clear as a bell. I’m going into town tomorrow to try to hunt down a cheap radio. They run the BBC World News at 7 each day. Right about the time I’m drinking my cup of coffee in the morning. Perfect! Speaking of coffee, we built the tables in my kitchen this week and cooking has become much more enjoyable. They are a perfect height, a problem I have even in the States. We joked how if a short volunteer replaces me they’ll have to build a step stool like the one Pat Seyjack of Wheel of Fortune uses to satisfy his Napoleon complex while greeting contestants. Haven’t noticed? Take a look the next time you watch the Wheel. I’ve already been experimenting with some of the locally available produce and melding it with Western spices. Made a damn good pumpkin soup a week ago and some tasty banana cinnamon pancakes the other day. A previous volunteer made a great cookbook geared towards using what is locally available, and the cookbooks were printed and distributed to each trainee during training. The author went to Poway High, graduated the same year as me, and I actually met him once through a cross-country friend of mine. Hats off to you Taylor for all the hard work!
Yesterday I met with the conservation committee for the village I stay in, Piliura, to try and hash out a plan to resolve a dispute my village has with the Nguna-Pele MPA. Turns out both bodies want income generated off of a tourist sponsor-a-turtle and tag him program. The MPA wants my village to sign the newly-drafted MPA agreement, but my village opposed signing a few months ago as the agreement had a clause sending all income from turtle tagging to the MPA. The tourist program is only run by Piliura, and they feel they have all rights to the tourists and their money. The MPA on the other hand, is broke, looking for income generation, and knows that the MPA name is used for the Piliura turtle tagging certificate and that MPA equipment is used for the tagging. Both sides have been very stubborn and engaged in very circular arguments during the two meetings held previous to my arrival in Pele. Well, after a lot of discussion with my village and the village conservation council, I got them to hash out a realistic proposal containing the amount of money going to the MPA and Piliura etc., the reasons why Piliura wants the given percentage of money, and what Pilura plans to do with the money earned.
Both sides have pretty valid points and I’m hoping they can come to an agreement during the MPA meeting on the 29th. Its definitely in my best interest for this to happen as I am an MPA volunteer, but my host village, because of the MPA base location, is Piliura. Its like Conflict Mediation 101 over here, and I’ve had to very careful to not take a side here while still pushing for something to be decided on.
During the conservation committee meeting we also talked of future initiatives the village wants to go ahead with including making a physical boundary of the conservation area (using buoys), a mariculture workshop, and the committee’s plan to generate income by selling kava. The latter being a good plan as Piliura does not make kava and there seems to be a good demand for it. I also told them of the incentive for people to drink when they knew the money was going to a good cause. “Get drunk and save the Earth!” Shit, you could even market it to overnight tourists once the two bungalows are built. In fact, the volunteers on Nguna have already used this to generate some small income for the MPA. I’m guessing that’s where the Piliura guys got the idea from.
I’m headed to Vila tomorrow a little earlier than the month interval period I gave myself to go because there’s a Cubs-Cards game (at Wrigley) on satellite. Two weeks ago, when I was in town, there was a scheduling change so no baseball was to be watched. In fact, one time they switched out the game for PBR bull riding. The Ni-Van waiter laughed his ass off at the site of some idiot riding a huge bull, but we weren’t to amused that baseball got bumped. So I’m hoping I get to watch a game this time as it may be the last time I’ll get to see the Cubbies this season.
There’s a business side to the trip too…I’m printing out the Bislama directions I made up for OTL and Beach Volleyball as I hope to get cranking on those soon. They also want me to grab the official sand soccer rules as they want to start a league for that too. I’m also going to pass on a disc I made of Vanuatu birdcalls pulled off a great internet site the last time I was in town (http://www.postiveearth.com if anyone’s interested, it may have a .vu at the end. I forget).
(written August 20)
Got to watch the Cubs game today but it was rained out after the third inning. Figures huh? I got to watch a little of the Little League World Series during the rain delay. Some kid from Curasau put on a 15K performance blowing the ball by the Saudi team. The Saudi team had a few really nice defensive plays, though. During the game I noticed a Ni-Van watching the game too and explained to him what the Series was all about. He turns out to be a guy from the Ministry of Youth and Sports and asked if Vanuatu had a team. "Not yet," I explained and he seemed really enthused about starting a youth baseball league and wants me and Javier, the other baseball-crazy volunteer, to drop by the office to talk about it. So I'll have to call Javier and get the wheels turning on that one. Still need to check with MLB to see if there are any grant or donation opportunities similar to what is done in the Caribbean to kick start youth baseball.
Bummed about the Cubs game but at least I got to see a few innings and networked with a provincial employee about youth baseball. Back to work. Plenty to get done today.
1 comment:
Yeah, the Cubs have been rained out these past couple of days. Boo! How cool would it be if your legacy was making Vanuatu the next Dominican for baseball recruiting! Little more expensive to fly the guys out though...
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